Ischgl Paves the Way for a Casual Rider in the Alps
Andy Kyriacou, vocalist for 80's Pop band Modern Romance, puts down the microphone long enough to write a review from the perspective of a 'ride for fun' biker on a trip to Ischgl.
When he isn't performing on stage, Andy is carving a niche into the world of travel journalism and shares his recent experience in Ischgl with us.
"This year I was able to go to what promised to be the jewel in Austria's skiing - and biking - crown. Indeed, this trip encompassed a major variation for me compared to other such trips, in that it involved a motorcycle as an integral part of the experience.
The idea was to ride over the Alps on motorbikes with other journalists / bikers and write about the opportunity for bikers to fly to Austria (via a number of routes and airlines available), hire a motorbike and take great pleasure thereafter by riding on some of the apparently amazing roads which snake through these imposing mountains.
Once I had accepted the invitation I felt a little apprehensive, as my knowledge of bikes is primarily as a 'ride for fun' biker, using the machine for days out with fellow bikers with 90% of my trips being to the West End, City of London, etc. Although riding in London is scary to some, I consider it normal and not as serious as say, track days, testing of new bikes and equipment, or trying out new advanced rider courses. I don't even ride in the rain - so if I am honest, I would say I'm a relaxed, casual, fair weather rider.
At Heathrow I met up with a trio of dedicated bike journalists (two men and one woman) and my initial apprehension seemed justified, because within five minutes they revealed more with regards their knowledge of biking than I have picked up in nine years of owning a bike... this was going to be fun!
Ischgl's main 'export' is tourism. It is a premier location for skiing and has a huge area for this activity - 240 kilometres of pisted runs - which is substantially more than many well-known resorts in Austria and other territories. This in turn attracts thousands of skiers every year.
The skiing season opens during the last week of November and ends the first weekend of May, when the warmer weather melts the snow. The season opens (and closes) with a live concert, now a regular event in the calendar - and always features a big name act, drawing in thousands of people, including locals as well as tourists. This year it was the turn of our very own Robbie Williams to close Ischgl's ski season on May 2nd, and previous years have seen Sting, Deep Purple and Kylie Minogue as the closing act.
Set in the Paznaun Valley within Tirol, Ischgl is the largest province in Austria, in the Silvretta mountains; part of Alps, which stretch across eight countries, including France, Switzerland, Italy and Germany. Access to the area by air is fairly straightforward. Swiss Air or BA will take you to Zurich, a three hour drive away. Alternatively, EasyJet fly to Innsbrook twice a week (one hour away). Monarch and Ryan Air also fly to the region. Flights on average are around £175 return but of course these prices do show an increase at school holiday times.
Many lovers of the long, open, winding road take their own bikes to the region, but for those who do not relish the idea of an 800 mile journey from the UK before they get to ride through Ischgl, there is an alternative. A marvellous system has been set up at the High-Bike Test Centre in Paznaun whereby you can hire and test a multitude of bikes, across many brands and ranges.
It is the only cross-brand motorcycle centre in the area and ensures that, due to the selection of bikes available, the experience is truly one which allows a rider to test out different machines every day on these challenging roads. All gear, including helmets, gloves, boots and clothing is available for hire too. This scheme was borne initially as a result of ideas from the tourist board and is now in its 4th year. This biking promotion seems to be really pulling in bike lovers, as we passed several returning from their day out, on our way to the Hotel Piz Tasna - our base for the next few day.
Following a hearty hotel breakfast the morning after we arrived, the bike centre was first stop on the agenda. Licences were flashed, deposits for security were paid and helmets and other essentials were acquired. DO NOT forget your licence if you do go on this venture. Telling the guys at the High Bike Centre that you have owned bikes for years simply will not do and you will be disappointed when you are not given a bike. On this trip, your licence is as important as your passport.
Once we were all ready, we rolled out like Mounties on our conquering steeds. As the owner of a Yamaha Dragstar cruiser, used primarily in London and on motorways, I chose the only cruiser I could see, a Triumph Thunderbird. A mistake on my part which would be evident later but which could have been avoided had I been given some advice from those a little more experienced.
Our ride took us high into the Alps where the views were truly breathtaking. The greenery of the Alpines is reminiscent of Norway and the excellent road surfaces make this the ideal biker thrill. I found myself fascinated by the Trisanna River, which accompanied much of our ride and at times it very shallow, breaking onto rocks and almost resembling a brook. Further on it would turn into a bright, beautiful, emerald green, swirling torrent.
On our planned route I had to negotiate more angled bends (hairpins and dog legs) than I have ever encountered in nine years of owning my bike. However, this is where I came unstuck with regards my bike choice. The sheer effort of steering this thing around these bends proved too much and my forearms started to feel as though a truck had gone over them. After what seemed like 6 hours but in reality was just under two, we eventually reached St. Moritz in Switzerland, where we stopped at Café Badilard for a drink.
I was ecstatic to get off the bike, taking the opportunity to remove the excellent Rukka jacket and trousers I had hired, and have the chance to cool down and allow my forearms some respite as we sat 1,464 metres above sea level. Someone casually pointed out that we were only about 40% of the way, in terms of altitude, and taking into account my error on bike choice I realised that trying to brave and continue up was not an option if safety was to be considered. Sadly, I opted to have one of the guides escort me back to the hotel, taking a different, flatter route (for which I was most grateful) and by the time we reached the hotel I was thankful to still be able to just about operate the brake and clutch levers. My hands and arms were exhausted and I was unsure if I was up to going out again the following day. This was real biker stuff, and admittedly I am, by comparison to these riders, a relative beginner...
However, be not deterred you bikers out there by my lack of endurance and my poor choice of bike, for this IS the holy grail of motorbiking. Ischgl/The Tirol/The Alps - this lovely picturesque region is to bikers what Graceland is to Elvis fans - home of what they love. I was probably perceived by my fellow bikers in Ischgl as a cautious or reserved biker, maybe even a part timer. And I will accept that, but it doesn't stop me realising that if it's motorbikes you're into, this is the place to come.
Ischgl looks like a newly built toy town, due to the fact that all buildings are constantly renovated before they are in need of it. A well-maintained and picturesque town, with an inspiring backdrop, some of the best and largest terrain for skiing in the world and some amazing roads for biking can all be found in this small corner of the planet. Mountain biking is huge out here too.
My fellow bikers pointed out that we had breakfast in Austria, tea in Switzerland, and they went on to have lunch in Italy! What an amazing experience. Although I didn't complete that final leg I will definitely be returning to Ischgl and the bike I choose will not be one which requires three months of gym work before it can be handled!
With my poor choice of bike still being felt the following day, I chose to not take on the ascent once more and after a walkabout around the town, I went to lunch at the 4-star Hotel Fluchthorn in Galpur, where traditional Tyrolean cuisine can be enjoyed in the à la carte restaurant.
After lunch, it was off to the Alpinarium Galtur, an exhibition building which also acts as a barrier to protect the village from any possible avalanches. This idea was sadly borne as a result of a tragic avalanche in 1999 which killed 31 people. A wall 345 metre long and 19 metres high was built to prevent a repeat of this disaster and the other side of the wall was utilised as the back wall for a building. This structure houses several, and ever changing exhibitions, and is in itself a permanent memorial to those who perished in the disaster.
From here it was off for a 3pm meeting with the rest of the biking gang, at the nearby Luggi hotel, one of the many biker friendly hotels in the region. The Stuva Restaurant served us our evening meal - including two starter; prawns with caviar followed by lobster with summer vegetables. Exquisite! There's no doubt that everything in the region, whether it is food, hotels, or service of any kind, it is of the highest quality.
So, what are you waiting for? Get your plastic out and pick up the phone. You won’t be sorry."
For specialist info visit www.highbike-paznaun.com - And if you do go, prompted by this review, please do drop me a line and let me know if it lived up to your expectations. AndrosJournalist@aol.com
Enjoy!
Read the complete unedited article by Andros Kyriacou at: https://kokovamagazine.com/archives/ischgl-paves-way-casual-rider-alps-unedited