Kokova Magazine

A casual rider in the Alps - Ischgl paves the way

** Andy Kyriacou, vocalist for 80's Pop band Modern Romance, puts down the microphone long enough to write this review, from the perspective of a 'ride for fun' biker.

My invitation to Ischgl as part of a planned press trip (my other, more casual occupation), was originally scheduled for last year, but other activities in my music career prevented me from taking up the offer. However, this year I was able to go to what promised to be, the jewel in Austria’s skiing / biking crown. Indeed, this trip encompassed a major variation for me compared to other such trips, in that it involved a motorcycle as an integral part of the experience.

The whole idea was to traipse over the Alps on motorbikes with other journalists / bikers, and write about the opportunity for bikers to fly to Austria (via a number of routes and airlines available), hire a motorbike, and take great pleasure thereafter by riding on some of the apparently amazing roads which snake through these imposing mountains.

Once I had accepted the invitation to attend, I felt a little apprehensive, as my knowledge of bikes is primarily as a 'ride for fun' biker, using the machine for days out with fellow bikers, and for 90% of my trips to the West End, City of London, etc. Although riding in London is scary to some, I consider it normal and not as serious as say, track days, testing of new bikes and equipment, trying out new advanced rider courses, etc. Hell, I don't even ride in the rain! So if I am honest, I would say I'm a relaxed, casual, fair weather rider.

As I arrived at Heathrow to meet up with dedicated bike journalists (2 males and a female), my initial apprehension seemed justified - within five minutes, they revealed more with regards their knowledge of biking than I have picked up in nine years of owning a bike. Thank goodness for these enlightened times, where we no longer have to feel threatened by the fact that a woman knows more than us men, in a supposedly 'male environment', or a male dominated pastime. The three of them had met several times previously on bike assignments, and chatted away merrily, involving me where possible. It was all very strange for me, yet an eye opener, as it clearly demonstrated how little I knew about the real biking world, when these three turned the conversation to their work.

Undeterred by this lack of knowledge, I made it my mission to treat this as I would any other press trip, and basically inform the reader of my movements in general, give an idea of the things one can do in the region, report any culinary delights I came across, and basically, espouse on the state of Ischgl and the surrounding areas.

One of the main 'exports' of Ischgl, is tourism, as it is a premier location for skiing. It has a huge area for this activity - 240 kilometres of pisted runs in fact, which is substantially more than many well-known resorts in Austria and other territories. This in turn, attracts thousands of skiers every year, and in order to keep current with equipment and facilities, vast sums are spent on the infrastructure for this pastime/sport. For instance, it is serviced by 44 lifts, ensuring skiers spend less time queuing at the base of the mountains and more time doing what they paid their money to do. (It’s a shame Disney cannot do the same for their visitors!). A new cable car lift was constructed last year, at a cost of 18.5 million Euros, and another is being replaced this year, which will cost 40 million Euros. Such investment is seen as necessary, if the satisfaction of visitors is to continue.

The skiing season opens during the last week of November, and ends the first weekend of May, when warmer weather melts the snow. The season opens (and closes) with a live concert, now a regular in the calendar, and always features a big name, drawing in thousands of people, both locally and of course visitors. Entry to the show is free, with a fee charged only for the use of the lifts which take you to the concert site. This year it was the turn of our very own Robbie Williams to close Ischgl’s ski season on May 2nd, and previous years have seen Sting, Deep Purple, and Kylie, as the act to close the season.

Ischgl is set in the Paznaun Valley within Tirol, the largest province in Austria. The area is in the Silvretta mountains, part of that 'small' range known as the Alps, which stretch across eight countries, including France, Switzerland, Italy, and Germany. Tourism in Ischgl is financed in two ways: Firstly, a tax on private citizens and businesses, and secondly by a nominal levy on tourists of 1.7 Euros, per person, per night. This enables the area to keep up the high standards enjoyed by visitors and residents alike, ensuring the constant influx of travellers, spending their money locally, and creating an Austrian “circle of life”, financially. This revenue also provides the lump sum required for the aforementioned concerts.

Access to the area by air is fairly straightforward. Swiss Air or BA will take you to Zurich, a three hour drive away. Alternatively, EasyJet fly to Innsbrook twice a week (one hour away). Monarch and Ryan Air also fly to the region. Flights on average, are around £175 return, but of course these prices do show an increase at school holiday times.

So, on to the other pastime, the one which I was in Ischgl to write about - motorbiking. Many lovers of the long, open, winding road take their own bikes to the region, but for those who do not relish the idea of, for example, an 800 mile journey from the UK before they get to ride through Ischgl, there is an alternative. A marvellous system has been set up at the High-Bike Test Centre in Paznaun, whereby you can hire and test a multitude of bikes, across many brands and ranges. It is the only cross brand motorcycle centre in the area, and ensures that due to the selection of bikes available, the experience is truly one which allows a rider to test out different machines every day, on these challenging roads. All gear, including helmets, gloves, boots and clothing, is available for hire, too. This scheme was borne initially as a result of ideas from the tourist board, and is now in its 4th year. This biking promotion seems to be really pulling in bike lovers, as we passed several returning from their day out, whilst approaching our base for the next few days, the Hotel Piz Tasna.

The first evening together was dedicated primarily to dinner at the hotel, giving everyone time to get acquainted, whilst also enabling the group to subject Sue Freeman, responsible for setting this whole thing up, to a barrage of questions about the region. Sue handled everything thrown at her with consummate ease. Hardly surprising – she has been officially promoting the area for the last 13 years!

Dinner was wonderful, beginning with a salad bar, then in the following order: A small venison sausage, tomato soup served in what resembled a glass cappuccino cup, ravioli with parmesan and krauter, a mini lemon sorbet (in a mini ice cream cone), a main course of fried beef in onions accompanied by what I assumed was the Austrian equivalent of a hash brown potato as a base, with salad, and finished off with apple strudel with strawberry ice cream and apricot puree. Satiated would be an understatement. A lovely meal, with some new bikers who would more than likely teach me a thing or two.

The next day, following a hearty hotel breakfast, the bike centre was first on the agenda. Licences were flashed, deposits for security were paid, and helmets and all manner of garb were modelled then nabbed. Let me say at this point - DO NOT forget your licence if indeed, you do go on this venture. Telling the guys at the High Bike Centre that you have owned bikes for years simply will not do and you will be disappointed when you are not given a bike. On this trip, your licence is as important as your passport.

Once we were all ready, we rolled out like Mounties on our conquering steeds - steeds we had chosen. As the owner of a Yamaha Dragstar cruiser, used primarily in London and on motorways, I chose the only cruiser I could see, a Triumph Thunderbird. A mistake on my part, which would be evident later, but which could have been avoided had my 'fellow' journalists been a little less concerned with their mutual back slapping, and a little more concerned with my well-being.

Our ride took us high into the Alps. The views were truly breathtaking, the greenery of the Alpines reminiscent of Norway, and the excellent road surfaces making this the ideal biker thrill - sometimes there was a drop on the other side of the barrier on the bends, at times the bends were long and sweeping, or tight and short. It was all there for the average to dedicated biker. There are even opportunities for the 'knee almost on the ground', should you desire and be good enough. I found myself fascinated by the Trisanna River which accompanied much of our ride. At times it was very shallow, breaking onto rocks and almost resembling a brook, but further on it would turn into a bright, beautiful, emerald green swirling torrent. It was not dissimilar to a flame, drawing you to stare at it, but with bends, dips, and gradient changes galore, this was hardly the time! I had to negotiate more ridiculously angled bends (hairpins and dog legs, etc.), than I have ever encountered in nine years of owning my bike. However, this is where I came unstuck with regards my bike choice. The sheer effort of steering this thing around these bends proved too much, and my forearms started to feel as though a truck had gone over them. After what seemed like 6 hours, but in reality was just under 2, we eventually reached St. Moritz, in Switzerland, where we stopped at Café Badilard for a drink. I was ecstatic to get off the bike, taking the opportunity to remove the excellent Rukka jacket and trousers I had hired, cool down, and allow my forearms some respite as we sat 1,464 metres above sea level. We would soon be heading down, stopping off somewhere for lunch, after which it was back to the hotel. My poor aching arms were pleased at this prospect. At least, that's what I thought! How wrong I was. Someone casually pointed out that our guide Andreas had told her we were about 40% of the way, in terms of altitude! Being sensible, and realising trying to brave it was not an option if safety was to be considered, I opted to have one of the guides escort me back to the hotel, taking a different, flatter route. (For which I was most grateful!) By the time we reached the hotel, I was thankful to still be able to just about operate the brake and clutch levers. My hands and arms were shot to pieces. I was unsure if I was up to going out again the following day. This was real biker stuff, and admittedly, I am by comparison to these riders, a relative beginner.

However, be not deterred you bikers out there, by my lack of endurance and my poor choice of bike, for this IS the holy grail of motorbiking. I can plainly see that. Ischgl/The Tirol/The Alps - this lovely picturesque region is to bikers what Graceland is to Elvis fans - home of what they love. I was probably perceived by my fellow bikers in Ischgl as a cautious or reserved biker, maybe even a part - time biker. I’ll accept that, but it doesn’t stop me realising that if it’s motorbikes you're into, this is the place to come, without a doubt. I for one, will be back, and will make a more informed choice when it comes to which bike I will ride. Also, on this visit photo opportunities were very scarce, due the weather and also, the reluctance of the other bikers to stop - it seemed that 'throttle open' was the main focus of the day!

I have to also mention the absolute impeccable way this town, and the region in general, is presented. Ischgl in particular looks like a newly built toy town, which is due to the fact that all buildings are constantly renovated BEFORE they are in need of it. So, we have a lovely, well-maintained and picturesque town, inspiring backdrop, some of the best and largest terrain for skiing in the world, and also some amazing roads for biking, in this small corner of the planet. Mountain biking is huge out here, too and brings in much revenue to the area.

To surmise, the hotels are excellent and reasonable, the food is wonderful, the people extremely friendly and always willing to help, and you can take part in some of the best motorbiking, skiing and mountain biking in the world, dependent on the time of year. My fellow bikers pointed out that we had breakfast in Austria, tea in Switzerland, and they went on to have lunch in Italy! What an amazing experience. Although I didn't complete that final leg, I will definitely be returning to Ischgl, ensuring that the weather forecast is more to my liking, and also that the bike I choose is not one which requires three months of gym work before it can be handled!

With my poor choice of bike still being felt the following day, I chose to not take on the ascent once more. My forearms still ached, and I admitted to myself that there was no shame in not going out in such horrendous weather - I wouldn't dream of doing it in the UK, so why do it here, again? I had ridden through the Alps, which was one of the reasons I was here, and done so under the worst rain and wind conditions, a feat in itself for someone used to their creature comforts and luxury. In fact, when I have been on bike rallies, (not often I admit), I’ve been teased by biker friends because I simply don’t do camping, and opt for the nearest hotel. (Yes, I have been spoilt, I agree). So on this second day, biking in the rain was as far from my mind as riding off the nearest precipice. Instead, I had a quick walkabout with Sue, and saw the lower level of Ischgl. Due to part of the town being around the next mountain bend, and lower down, (a long way to walk, especially when laden with ski equipment), a tunnel through the mountain, (complete with moving floors) has been constructed to enable easy walking access. There is also a lift for this purpose. It’s incredible how the Austrians think of everything in an effort to ensure the safety and comfort of their visitors and locals.

I returned to the hotel for a few hours to do some work, and at 12.45 met up again with Sue, with whom I went to lunch at the 4-star Hotel Fluchthorn in Galpur, where traditional Tyrolean cuisine can be enjoyed in the à la carte restaurant. The food was truly marvellous (I had the venison on a wooden platter, as shown on the photo) and this wonderful eatery is well worth a visit if you are a lover of fine foods. In fact, fine food and wonderful presentation seemed to be a theme in Ischgl. The consistency in quality, and the pride in the end product was evident everywhere we went.

After lunch, it was off to the Alpinarium Galtur, an exhibition building which also acts as a barrier to protect the village from any possible avalanches. This idea was sadly borne as a result of a tragic avalanche in 1999, when 31 people were killed. A wall 345 metre long and 19 metres high was built to prevent a repeat of this disaster, and the other side of the wall was utilised as the 'back wall' so to speak, for a building. This structure houses several, and ever changing exhibitions, and is in itself, a permanent memorial to those who perished in the disaster.

From here it was off for a 3.00 pm meeting with the rest of the biking gang, at the nearby Luggi hotel, one of the many biker friendly hotels in the region. I was amazed to see how many of these hotels were equipped with drying rooms, where bikers can hang their leathers to dry on heated poles, and this includes special racks for gloves and boots. There is nothing worse than putting on bike gear and finding it still wet from the previous day. Such attention to detail is sure way to guarantee a satisfied and returning biker! The owner of the hotel (yes, Luggi), not only led out the bike troupe on this second day, but when we met at the hotel, had laid on snacks and drinks. Additionally, he suddenly produced a guitar and along with a friend on accordion, treated us to traditional songs - great fun! He does this regularly, and hotel guests do enjoy it.

A trip back to the hotel for a few hours, and we met in the evening for dinner (more food!). However, as had become the norm here since our arrival, the food really was excellent again. The Stuva Restaurant served us with two starters - prawns with caviar, followed by lobster with summer vegetables. Exquisite!

There's no doubt that everything in the region, whether it is food, hotels, or service of any kind, is of the highest quality. It may be that if you come here for the biking, you could find your hotel so comfortable that you have to push yourself to go out for hours on the bike. However, coming back to excellent facilities for your leathers and equipment, and equally good facilities for you (most hotels have sauna, steam rooms, etc), will make this an all-round travel experience of the highest degree.

Speaking of saunas, I did venture into the sauna and the steam room in our hotel on the last night, prior to the trip to the Stuva Restaurant. However, when I left the steam room in an almost melted state to have a shower, I reached for the shower controls and noticed also a rope. I looked up, and there was a bucket! At first I thought it was maybe there as an effect, or maybe even as a joke. I gave the rope a gentle tug and sure enough, cold water splashed over the sides of the bucket. Well, being a believer that, 'When in Rome…..' etc. I braced myself, and gave the rope a wholehearted yank. The cascading water was freezing, yet it was the most exhilarating feeling. It was so quick (unlike a cold shower) you didn’t have time to register the coldness. I will definitely do this again, given the chance, and do recommend it.

Ischgl and the surrounding region ooze quality in every shape and form. So, what are you waiting for? Get your plastic out and pick up the phone. You won't be sorry. For specialist info, please contact: info@highbike-paznaun.com . If you do go, prompted by this review, please do drop me a line and let me know if it lived up to your expectations. AndrosJournalist@aol.com

Enjoy!

Footnote:
The only negative for me on this trip, was the attitude of the British journalists. The guys from Germany, and Switzerland were fine, but unfortunately, apart from one of the three Brits, who turned out to be a fellow 'Gooner' and quite friendly, the other two adopted this air of “'WE are true bike journalists, you are merely a general journalist who is a lowly casual rider'. They definitely considered me not of their sort when I didn't go on to Italy, and I noticed a reluctance to include me in their conversation, generally. Indeed, one of them, a 23-year old who thought she was to the biking world what Christina Aguilera is to music, sat next to me on the flight home (how scintillating for me!) and never spoke. I thought all this was a shame, and did wonder what would happen if I adopted the attitude of: 'I am a part-time journalist whose real job is in a band which has had 8 hits worldwide, and I make ten times more money than you guys - you are just lowly journalists'. Where would it all end? I thought that, irrespective of the type and power of the machine we ride, so long as it has two wheels we are all bikers, and we support each other. Apparently not.